I remember the first time hiking Lawu back in 2009 and looking over to the hills to the south, still technically part of the Lawu range. Back then there was very little information on these hills or interest in hiking them, but now things are very different with the hugely popular Bukit Mongkrang, and its trailhead just a couple of kilometres from the two main Lawu trailheads .

We got the train to Solo, then Grab up to Mongkrang trailhead. Poor weather as partly expected at this time of year, but quite atmospheric and mot much chance of sunburn. The views over to Lawu are great, but once above 2,000m the clouds moved in and there was nothing to see at all. I left my companion at one of the warungs which are great for a rest, and headed up quickly to Bukit Candi 1. Had it been better weather, or had my companion not been waiting, or had I not already planned to do Jobolarangan the next morning for sunrise, i would have gone on to the higher Mongkrang peak – Candi 2. But with someone waiting, no views, and a second hike planned to the true peak of the southern Lawu hills, I was back down fast.

Quite a few turkeys strolling around near the Mongkrang ticket booth – not a common sight in Java, at least not for me. We were staying in Danau Sarangan, so got ojeks over the border and down into Sarangan village. Be warned that there is often a police check for masks and helmets and ID at the border, so be sensible on what can be quite a dangerous road in wet conditions.

It now costs Rp20,000 per adult to enter the Sarangan lake area – a price that has not deterred locals, with many there at weekends. Remember to keep your ticket in your wallet so if you do a hike the next day you can get back in again without paying a second time!

Mongkrang itself is hidden from view from Sarangan, with a 2,134m high peak lying directly inbetween. This peak has very steep cliffs yet no name on the Bakosurtanal map.

Jobolarangan was the highlight of the weekend. The basecamp lads picked me up at 2am and we were hiking by 3am. Unlike Mongkrang there is a bit of proper forest up here and apparently leeches, though I didn’t ‘meet’ any. It has a real wild, ancient feel like the Wilis range and the stone cairns, wall and well at the top are probably historically significant, like many such mountain ‘monuments’ in East Java that pre-date the Islamic era.

It took a while for the clouds to lift but it was worth waiting for this. Lawu, Merapi and Merbabu all clearly visible, though a little cloudy at the tops, meaning I couldn’t see if Merapi was erupting or not.

The Mbandulan camp site is well worth a quick detour on the way back down – great views to the east.